Short rib steak with Bernaise sauce


By Lee Hyo-won
Staff Reporter

Itaewon has always been the hub of international fare, as Seoul's equivalent of a cosmopolitan enclave for restaurants with its familiar yet exotic hustle and bustle. Tucked away in alleyways behind Itaewon's main strip of run down fast food joints and shopping centers, cozy and tasteful restaurants serve colorful cuisine from different corners of the world.

In recent years, eateries have become noticeably stylish catering to customers who want savory food, fine ambiance and friendly service. Among them, French wine bar and bistro Le Saint-Ex has become a regular venue reputed for comfortable yet stylish dining. This is a great place for a special yet relaxed dining experience, which offers juicy meats, classic French fries and some really mouthwatering desserts.

A bistro is a small restaurant typical to France serving moderately priced meals in a homey atmosphere. Le Saint-Ex is indeed tiny, seating no more than 20. With wooden furniture, brass-lined finishing and red wine tinted curtains, the restaurant is classy casual. Chansons hum in the background and walls adorned with French posters surround you.

The menu lists standard soups, salads and terrines like fois gras (duck, goose or chicken liver). Appropriately for a French bistro, it offers a sizeable selection of wine and cheese. Wine by the glass is about 8,000 won while a carafe serving three glasses is about 12,000 won, so the latter is advised. You can even order rare cheeses through the restaurant.

The main course on the other hand varies daily, and the cheerful waiter walks you through the menu du jour. While you wait for your meal, you can munch on fresh baguette, which has a nice crunch on the outside and is soft on the inside.

We tried the short ribs with Bernaise sauce (34,000 won) topped with sizzling fois gras (additional 11,000 won) and the roasted flounder with artichokes and zucchini. While dinner prices aren't too cheap (24,000-45,000 won), there are discounted lunch deals.

The beef was juicy and tender. While not artsy, refined haute French cuisine-style, it had the perfect tang, and the stir-fried veggies were just perfect. The yellow Bernaise sauce was a bit too eggy, but tasty all the same. The fish on the other hand, was nothing spectacular, but the fluffy zucchini and egg mixed pate was to die for.

To complete your dining experience, the dessert is a must. Try the Floating Island (6,000 won), a simple yet fancy-looking French dessert. Poached meringue floats on a pool of custard and Le Saint-Ex tops it with a layer of hard-glazed sugar that melts in your mouth, oh la la! You need to order this in advance, with your main meal. Other sinful confections include French classics like creme brulee, chocolate cakes and berry-topped tarts and more.

Open everyday, Le Saint-Ex serves lunch from 12 to 3 p.m. and reopens at 6 p.m. for dinner (last order 9:30 p.m.). Take-outs are available and brunch is offered on Sunday. Reservation is advised.

Located near exit 1 of Itaewon station on subway line 6. Walk past Hamilton Hotel and KFC and turn right and walk up the next alleyway. Make a left, and find Le Saint-Ex at the end of the strip on your left. Call (02) 795-2465. Bon appetit!

hyowlee@koreatimes.co.kr