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Cold Noodles, Standing the Test of Time

“The dough is the secret to our recipe,” says Song Hyun-woong, the chef of Pildong Myeon-ok, in Chung-gu, downtown Seoul, as he showed The Korea Times how the naengmyeon noodles are made. (From left) The dough is prepared by mixing the buckwheat flour with cold water. The dough is then leveled through a press and placed into the noodle machine. Thin noodles are instantly cooked in a boiling hot pot of water. (Top) Song washes the freshly cooked noodles with cold water to moderate the bitter taste.

/ Korea Times Photo by Shim Hyun-chul

By Han Sang-hee
Staff Reporter

Naengmyeon, or ``cold noodles,'' is a popular dish among Koreans, and one that with its icy cold broth and soft noodles has stood the test of fickle taste buds. While some may know it as a simple meal served after eating bulgogi or other heavy dishes, naengmyeon actually is a tasty delicacy in itself.

This famous dish originated in North Korea. Noodle dishes were a simple and easy dish to prepare, which was important for North Koreans living in mountainous regions with harsh weather.

Pyongyang, the North Korean capital, and Hamheung, located in the middle of Hamgyeong Province, are famous for their special and distinctive naengmyeon dishes.

Pyongyang, surrounded by one of the most mountainous regions in the nation, used to be famous for its high quality buckwheat. The bitter plant normally grows well in areas with high temperatures and at high altitudes, making Pyongyang the perfect place for it.

Noodles made from buckwheat tend to taste a bit bitter but are light and delicate in texture. There is no need to cut them with scissors, as you can simply use your chopsticks. Pyongyang naengmyeon also comes in a broth, giving it another name ― mul naengmyeon, or literally ``water naengmyeon.'' Traditionally, pheasant broth is considered to be the best in Pyongyang, but many places also use cow bones and even watery radish kimchi or ``dongchimee.''

``There's nothing fancy about Pyongyang naengmyeon, for the chilly atmosphere didn't allow pretty decorations or tangy ingredients and spices,'' the Institute of Traditional Korean Food explained.

For a fancier version of naengmyeon, however, there is Hamheung naengmyeon. Located in the northeastern part of the peninsula and near the sea, Hamheung used to be rich in potatoes, sweet potatoes and seafood. The noodles of this region's naengmyeon are made of ground potato or sweet potato, while the dish is garnished with a spicy and tangy red pepper sauce with chunks of raw skate or ray.

Because the noodles are made of ground potato, they are thicker and chewier than Pyongyang's noodles, so a good pair of scissors is a good idea. Hamheung naengmyeon does not come with broth, but it is topped with a spicy thick sauce to mix the noodles with. The mixing led people to call the dish ``bibim naengmyeon,'' literally mixed noodles.

Although the two dishes may seem different, they are both served in large cold bowls with simple yet satisfying garnishes including some cucumber slices, kimchi and a hard-boiled egg.

The Korea Times visited two famous naengmyeon places, one that serves Pyongyang naengmyeon and another that serves the dish from Hamheung, in central Seoul and tried to discover the hidden secrets of the chilly dish.

Pyongyang Naengmyeon

Pildong Myeon-ok is located by Daehan Cinema near Chungmuro Station. It is one of the more famous places to enjoy genuine Pyongyang naengmyeon. Although far from fancy, the owner guaranteed that they have been serving the exact same recipe for the past 25 years. The icy cold naengmyeon was simple in both taste and appearance.

``We use 80 percent buckwheat when we make the noodles. We started with 100 percent, but we realized that the scent and the texture of the buckwheat based noodles were too strong and rough,'' Hong Sun-ja, 44, the owner and the eldest daughter of a family who runs several naengmyeon places around Seoul, told The Korea Times.

``Pyongyang food is very simple. It is not spicy, salty or even sweet. Nowadays, it's hard for young people to appreciate the dish because they are so used to sweet and salty food. But for the seniors, these rather `boring' dishes bring back memories from the past,'' she added.

Indeed, the broth was actually a bit bland. But curiously enough, the bitter noodles went well with the simple broth and the small pieces of sliced pork that complimented the whole dish.

The most important factors about naengmyeon are the noodles. At Pildong, a veteran chef makes out the evenly thin and delicate noodles every day. Song Hyun-woong has made noodles for the past 20 years and he mentioned that his secret was in preparing the dough.

``We use buckwheat that was grown and gathered by the owner's own family members. Fresh buckwheat, clean water and devotion are what make delicious noodles,'' said Song.

When a customer gives an order, Song immediately works with the dough by putting it in a grinding machine that helps make it smoother and then a noodle machine. The noodles are instantly dropped into a large container of boiling hot water. It takes 8-10 seconds for them to get cooked and Song then cuts and washes them in icy cold water. The ``washing'' of the noodles take place twice to make the noodles cool and fresh and also to moderate the bitter taste.

The process is carried out in a hot kitchen, with the fire under the boiling hot water continuing to blaze, but the cool noodles were enough to put a smile on Song's face.

Pildong Myeong-ok is open from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and located behind Daehan Cinema. Call (02) 2266-0735. A naengmyeon dish costs 7,000 won.

Other Pyongyang-style eateries are located in the vicinity. Eulji Myeon-ok (2266-2611) located at Ipjeong-dong, Chung-gu, is well loved by long-time patrons. Woo Rae Ok (2266-0151-2), located at Jugyo-dong, Chung-gu, and with branches overseas maintains the traditional taste.

Hamheung Naengmyeon

For a spicy experience, visit Ojang-dong's Heungnam House. Three generations of the family have been selling the sweet and spicy noodle dish since 1953, and during lunch times you have to wait in a long line to eat.

``The secret to our dish is the `sashimi muchim,' or sashimi seasoned with a thick red pepper paste. My son goes out every morning to buy the best ingredients. When he comes back, we all prepare the ``sashimi muchim'' needed for the next day together. It needs to be preserved overnight to create that tangy flavor,'' Kwon Ki-soon, 65, the co-owner told The Korea Times.

When asked of the specific ingredients of the special muchim, she shook her head and smiled.

``Every restaurant has their own secret. Hamheung naengmyeon may seem simple, but it all depends on the secret ingredients,'' said Kwon.

The dish was a lot different from Pildong's Pyongyang naengmyeon. The noodles were thick and had a clear blue-gray color. Kwon explained that the noodles were made with only sweet ground potato, making it somewhat slippery and chewy at the same time. For a more intensified experience, sprinkle some vinegar, sesame oil and mustard onto them.

``It gets crazy in summer because so many people come to enjoy the refreshing treat. Spicy or not, I think naengmyeon is the best summer dish you can eat in Korea,'' said Kwon.

Heungnam House is open from 11 to 9:30 p.m. and located near exit 8 of Euljiro 4-ga on subway line 2. Call (02) 2266-0735.

sanghee@koreatimes.co.kr