Tokyo in bloom all seasons By Kwan Weng Kin
Publisher:The Straits Times - Publication Date: 14-05-2008

I have seen the cherry blossoms bloom in Tokyo more times than I am willing to remember. Next year marks 20 years of my living and working in this city as the Japan correspondent for this newspaper.

When I arrived in Tokyo in 1989 to take up my posting, Japan was at the tail end of an economic bubble, followed soon afterwards by some 10 years of recession that sapped the city's energy.

Ironically, the lower land and real estate prices during that gloomy period helped to speed up redevelopment of large parts of the capital. Even now, key indices say that the Japanese economy is still not exactly in the pink of health, but where Tokyo is concerned, the visitor can be forgiven for thinking otherwise. And this also applies to those who have just 48 hours to savour the many attractions on offer.

There is never a dull moment or place in Tokyo. But there may not be enough time and money to enjoy it all. To be expected, prices are invariably higher here than in many other countries.

But the Japanese craving for quality products means that the selection - from designer labels to gourmet food - is probably the best in the world. Needless to say, the service is first class.

There is no need to worry if your tastes are less expensive. You can expect the best even in a lowly ramen restaurant or 100-yen (about US$1) shop. Best of all, there is absolutely no tipping.

The city is now much more user-friendly than before. The subway lines are colour-coded and stations are numbered to make it easier for foreigners who don't read Japanese to navigate the system.

Try and avoid the hot and muggy summer months from July to early September. Winter can be a little cold, but otherwise the weather is perfect for it rarely rains or snows.

And lucky are those who make it here during cherry blossom time from late March to early April when the city is bursting with pale pink sakura blossoms.

WHERE TO STAY

Most people I know would rather spend their money on shopping and dining than on a hotel room where they are going to sleep for only several hours a day anyway.

Budget and business hotels are plentiful, but so are international five-star hotels for the well-heeled.

Because it is convenient to move around by train in Tokyo, it is best to pick a hotel close to a station.

The Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu (tel: 5457-0109) is directly connected to Shibuya Station. For five-star luxury, there is the Grand Hyatt Tokyo at Roppongi Station (tel: 4333-1234). For the budget-conscious who want to savour a bit of old Tokyo, look at Taito Ryokan (TAITO RYOKAN OFFICIAL WEBSITE).

WHERE TO EAT

A Michelin guide for Tokyo released last year has turned the city into the world's gourmet capital. Do phone ahead before you go to any Michelin-recommended restaurant as many of them are booked several months ahead, especially after the guide came out.

But if you happen to be in the vicinity of the Tokyo Tower, you might want to give the Shiba Tofuya Ukai restaurant a try. It is housed in traditional Japanese-style buildings and includes a lovely garden on its spacious premises. The menu features bean curd served in the kaiseki (traditional multi-course dinner) style. Lunch courses start from 5,500 yen and dinner from 10,500 yen (4-4-13 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku, tel: 3436-1028). Michelin gave it one star.

If sushi is on your must-eat list, combine it with an early morning trip to the Tsukiji wholesale fish market. With some patient wandering around, you are apt to stumble upon little eateries that will serve you a delectable bowl of raw tuna on vinegared rice for breakfast. The area is also full of full-scale sushi restaurants, so take your pick.

There are ramen shops at practically every corner in Tokyo. My latest discovery is Ippudo, which serves Fukuoka-style ramen in rich pork-flavoured broth. At its Higashi-Ginza outlet, you can slurp your noodles to the strains of New York jazz. (The chain has just opened a branch in New York's Fourth Avenue.) Lunch sets include gyoza (fried dumplings) and free servings of rice. Many customers ask for additional helpings of noodles. (B1, Daiichi Nakayama Building, 3-11-14 Ginza, Chuo-ku, tel: 3547-1010. It's next to Exit 7 of the station, or across the road from Exit 8)

An eternal favourite Japanese fast-food is gyudon (beef bowl). Yoshinoya, which has outlets all over town, is still the best. If beef is not your cup of tea, it now has pork items as well.

WHAT TO SEE

Asakusa and its famous Sensoji Temple is a must. I was there recently after a long absence and was surprised to find how much more popular it has become. Go through the imposing Kaminarimon gate and along the atmospheric Nakamise Doori, which is touted as Japan's oldest shopping mall. It leads to the main temple building and is lined with some 90 shops selling traditional tidbits and souvenirs.

Also take a stroll in the nearby park along the Sumida River. You will want to come back here again during cherry blossom time.

You can also see Asakusa while seated comfortably in a jinrikisha pulled by an athletic young man (or woman). Rides start from about 5,000 yen a person, or 8,000 yen for two for 30 minutes.

Akihabara was once world-famous for its shops selling electronic goods. In recent years, the area has achieved even more fame following its transformation from plain electronic-gadget town to a mecca for anime, manga and cosplay fans, and also connoisseurs of 'maid cafes'.

Once you get off the train at JR Akihabara Station, be prepared to be greeted by young women dressed in maids' costumes, each touting her own cafe.

Pick a Sunday to go to Akihabara when the main street is blocked off for pedestrians and the action heats up several fold compared to weekdays.

You can gawk at the costumed young women or snap away with your digital cameras like hundreds of hot-blooded Japanese men.

See if you can find the vending machines selling ramen, pasta and oden (a Japanese stew) in cans with pull-off tabs for immediate consumption. These products are exclusive to Akihabara.

WHERE TO SHOP

My vote goes to the Ginza in downtown Tokyo, not just because it is only four stations from where I live. After a spate of renewals and openings in the past few years, the Ginza now has probably the largest number of designer flagship stores on Earth, the better to cater to the Japanese weakness for designer brands and limited-edition products.

Each of these stores features a tall, dark and handsome Japanese man to open the door for women customers (and their male escorts).

If, like me, you are not in the big league where shopping is concerned, there is a four-storey Uniqlo shop (5-7-7 Ginza, Chuo-ku, tel: 3569-6781) where you can check out its products. Uniqlo is due to open a branch in Singapore in August next year.

My second favourite area is Shibuya, where I studied Japanese in the early 1980s. It is filled with eateries and is home to two of the best CD shops in Tokyo - HMV and Tower Records. People of all ages throng the Tokyu Hands store (12-18 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, tel: 5489-5111), which features eight levels of intriguing products that are guaranteed to make you lose track of time.

While in Shibuya, don't forget to look out for the Hachiko statue outside the station's west exit. It commemorates Hachiko, a faithful dog which waited for its master at the station every day even after the old man died. A Hollywood remake of the story starring Richard Gere is due for release soon.

If you are wondering where young Japanese college kids like to frequent, try Shimokitazawa on the Inokashira line from Shibuya (or the Odakyu line from Shinjuku). Here you will literally rub shoulders with thousands of young Japanese who throng the narrow streets around the station, looking for cheap and good food, as well as shopping for clothes and knick-knacks.

HOW TO GET AROUND

The best way to move around the city is by subway or train. There are many train companies in the capital. But you can buy a Suica card at a JR station or a Pasmo card at a subway station that will allow you to ride on all the lines and buses in the city and in Greater Tokyo as well. There is a 500 yen deposit on the card, refundable at the end of your stay. Subway stations are now fully colour- and number-coded so there is no need to struggle with Japanese names.

HOW TO GET THERE

There are direct flights to Tokyo every day on Singapore Airlines and a host of other international airlines.

SAFETY

Tokyo is one of the safest places in the world. But in very crowded areas, it is best to play it safe as gangs of pickpockets from neighbouring countries have been known to operate in the capital from time to time.

BEST-KEPT SECRET

If you have a weakness for Western confectionery and have already done the rounds of basement food floors at Tokyo's major department stores, you might want to make a trip to Sweets Forest, billed as a theme park for cakes, in the elegant suburb of Jiyugaoka. (1F-3F La Coeur Jiyugaoka, 2-25-7 Midorigaoka, Meguro-ku, tel: 5731-6600. The nearest station is Jiyugaoka on the Tokyu Toyoko line)

The park is run by arcade game-maker Namco, which also manages Namjatown in Ikebukuro. Namjatown is a cluster of theme parks featuring gyoza (fried dumplings), ice cream and desserts. (Sunshine City World Importmart Bldg, 2&3F, 3-1 Higashi-ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. tel: 5950-0765)

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I would love to go to Tokyo and just enjoy all I can, scenery and cuisine but when I clicked on the link to the "savor a bit of old Tokyo" hotel I went OMG, no thank you, lol. Some may enjoy a stay at Taito Ryokan but I would be hesitant to step into it. Maybe I'm a snob but oh well.

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I just can't help myself. Risk it all with me.