Crisp sea, flowers, rich history By Kim Kyu-heong
Publisher:The Korea Herald - Publication Date: 02-04-2008

Last week, people all around Korea prematurely broke out their spring clothing and spent time outdoors, enjoying the refreshing breath of warmth that broke the monotony of winter. Unfortunately, Old Man Winter showed everyone that he had a little more left in him, kicking up the winds and once again mustering up cool temperatures. But as sure as the sun rises in the east, spring will break through, and with it, so will the colours of change -- flowers.

Deep down in the heart of Korea, far away from the hording crowds in Yeouido, snapping pictures of cherry blossoms, spring's colors are already in bloom against the spectacular backdrop of the South Sea. In the South Gyeongsang Province city of Tongyeong, aspects of flora, sea and history come together for a unique spring experience that is unrivaled anywhere else in Korea.

Against the backdrop of Hansan Island's Jaesungdang, where Admiral Yi Sun-shin carefully observed the movements of the Japanese fleet prior to engaging them in a famous naval battle, Magnolia trees are in full bloom. Along the scenic coastal road of the same island, camellia blossoms stand precariously on hillsides sloping into the sea. Back on the mainland, forsythia shrubs line the walkways of the Tongyeong Arts Center. It is indeed a combination of human and natural elements that's worth a visit in early spring.

Today, Tongyeong is widely known as an international shipbuilding centre, but there was a time when the city's drydocks weren't producing massive supertankers or cargo ships, but were instead preparing for one of the most infamous battles in naval history. In the first of a trio of major naval collisions, Admiral Yi successfully fought off a numerically superior Japanese fleet in theses straights in August 1592 and thereafter constructed a complex on Hansan Island to oversee naval operations.

The buildings, now officially referred to as -- hold your breath -- "The historic site of patriotic spirit of Admiral Yi Sun-shin at Hansando," but still known among the locals as Jaesungdang, have undergone multiple restorations since then. Though the era of Japanese invasions has long passed, the area now sees a daily naval invasion by tourists who dock on the island from one of the many ferries from Tongyeong or nearby Geoje Island.

For the full tour of the island, bringing your own vehicle is the best option. For less than 10,000 won (US$10), a boat will ferry a car and passenger to the otherwise inaccessible island from the passenger ferry terminals in Tongyeong and Geoje Island. Once on Hansan Island, a drive on the ring road -- three-quarters arc to be more specific -- will provide spectacular views complete with lighthouses, blossoming camellia shrubs and even the occasional heron sighting. A slight detour will even take you atop Godongsan Hill, where a stone pillar dedicated to Admiral Yi stands with views over the entire island and the bay.

Even on the mainland, the region's connection to Admiral Yi is unavoidable, with a full-size replica of the famed turtle ship -- towed to the Tongyeong harbor from Seoul in 2005 -- open to any visitor who wants to step on its wobbly deck. Located halfway between the Tongyeong Arts Centre, where the Tongyeong International Music Festival is held twice every year, and the ferry terminal, the turtle ship is a perfect stopover between a morning at the Arts Centre's outdoor sculpture garden and an afternoon out on one of the area's many islands.

The passenger ferry terminal and cruise terminal across the strait service so many islands in fact, that deciding which islands to visit may be the most difficult part of your visit. For fun on the sand, one of the south coast's best beaches is the strip of sand that connects the north and south segments of Bijin Island. For the most spectacular rock formations, the Dragon's Head of Yeonhwa Island can't be beat. A walkable option, complete with cliffsides uniquely carved by thousands of years of beating waves await at Somaemul Island.

No matter which island you decide to visit, the combination of blooming flowers, crisp sea and rich history make Tongyeong a unique spring getaway.

Just don't forget to catch the last ferry back to the mainland.

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