Charm amid the chaos By Ong Hwee Hwee
Publisher:The Straits Times - Publication Date: 24-05-2008

This city grows on you. That was the pre-departure advice from one of my friends when I decided to become this newspaper's Taiwan correspondent more than two years ago.

And it sums up my sentiments about this crowded, chaotic but charming Taiwanese capital.

It does not boast ancient landmarks which qualify as world heritage sites. Nor is it as cosmopolitan as its Asian counterparts such as Beijing, which awes visitors with its imposing skyscrapers and modern skyline.

In fact, Taiwan's Taoyuan International Airport - inaugurated 28 years ago - appears to be stuck in a time warp in this age of mega-airports.

Yet the city exudes a unique charm which stems from its chaotic blend of contrasts.

Dilapidated shophouses stand alongside gleaming condominiums. Eateries with gaudy neon-lit signs co-exist with hip, understated cafes. Street vendors set up makeshift stalls outside classy boutiques.

Taipei may not dazzle. But it works its charm on you - slowly and surely.

About Taipei

The Taiwanese capital has something to offer both city slickers and nature lovers.

As it is surrounded by mountains and bordered by rivers, you can travel from urban to rural in less than an hour.

And for foodies, its famous night-market snacks are simply irresistible.

The best time to visit Taipei is during the cool spring weather of March to early May.

And the best thing about Taipei? Its renqing wei - warm and friendly Taiwanese who make you feel at home, even though you may be far from home.

Where to stay

If you're in the mood to splurge, check into Grand Hotel. Built in the 1950s to house foreign dignitaries, each of the eight guest-room levels at this Chinese palace-style hotel represents a different dynasty in ancient Chinese history.

Room rates start from NT$5,700 (US$187) at this Taipei landmark. You get to sit at former president Chiang Kai-shek's desk and his wife's dressing table if you fork out NT$160,000 (US$1,200) for the presidential suite. (No 1, Sec 4, Chungshan N. Road, Tel: 886- 2-2886-8888)

The San Want Hotel, located right in the middle of the Chunghsiao E. Road shopping belt, is the perfect choice for shopaholics. Rates for a double room start at NT$5,800 (US$190). (No 172, Sec 4, Chunghsiao E. Road, Tel: 886-2-2772-2121)

If you're into designer furniture, check out Ambience Hotel. This all-white boutique hotel is fitted with Philippe Starck furniture. Promotional room rates start from NT$2,760 (US$90). (No 64, Sec 1, Chang-an E. Road, Tel: 886-2-2541-0077)

Where to eat

Taipei is a foodie's heaven. Period. Trust my weighing scale.

For spectacular Taiwanese fare with an even more spectacular view, visit Shin Yeh 101 Ambiance, located on the 85th floor of the Taipei 101.

Instead of settling for the hassle-free set meals, order authentic Taiwanese dishes from the a la carte menu, such as deep-fried oysters, homemade special pork and its signature chai por or preserved radish omelette.

Minimum charge is NT$880 (US$29)per person and early reservations are required. (No 7, Sec 5, Hsinyi Road, Taipei 101 Building, 85th floor, Tel: 886-2-8101-0185)

The Cha For Tea chain owned by Taiwan's famous Tien Ren Tea Co serves tea-infused cuisine, such as Pu-Erh flavoured beef.

Try the dried mee sua or flour vermicelli and the sweet and crunchy tempura tea leaves.

It has several outlets, but reservations are recommended. (No 152, Fuhsing N. Road, Tel: 886-2-2719-9900)

No trip to Taipei is complete without visiting its night markets. Try the crispy-yet-not-oily yan su ji or fried salted chicken from a stall opposite the main entrance of the Linjiang Street or Tonghua night market. It doesn't have a proper name, but is simply called the '20 years old shop'.

Hong Kong celebrity Kelly Chen was seen picking up some late-night supper from this stall. I know because she cut into my queue.

Also try the bite-sized sheng jian bao or pan-fried buns, as well as lu wei - think yong tau foo braised in dark soy sauce - from the Shida night market.

If you like ice cream, the Shei Wong (Snow King) shop offers a creative menu which boasts more than 70 flavours of handmade ice cream - including unconventional ones such as pig's trotter, pork floss, tofu and gao liang wine. (No 65, Sec 1, Wuchang Street, Tel: 886-2-2331-8415)

What to see

A major facelift has breathed new life into the renowned National Palace Museum, which houses the best of ancient Chinese art. If you are not a museum fan, you can always pick up some cool Alessi-designed souvenirs, or have some imperial snacks at the beautiful San-hsi Tang tea room. (No 221, Sec 2, Chih-shan Road, Tel:886-2-2881-2021)

The Eslite bookstore chain is an icon of Taipei. Not only does it allow browsing, but it also creates a wonderfully hospitable space for those getting a free read.

Visit its new flagstore near Taipei 101, or its 24-hour store in Dunhua S. Road. (No 245, Sec 1, Dunhua S. Road, Tel: 886-2-2775- 5977)

After a long day of sightseeing, get a relaxing soak at the hot springs located in Beitou, Wulai or Mount Yangming.

If you want something closer, check out the resorts at the wenquan or hot spring street near the New Beitou subway station.

Unlike hot springs in Japan, you can don a swimsuit while soaking in the public bath. Or you can pay a bit more for a private one.

Or you can take the Maokong gondola and have 'high' tea at the lovely Yao Yue Teahouse perched on the slopes of Maokong tea plantation. Living up to its poetic name - it means 'moon gazing' - you can sip Tieguanyin under the moonlight at this teahouse which is open round the clock. (No 6, Lane 40, Sec 3, Zhinan Road, Tel: 886-2-2939-2025)

Where to shop

Shop till you drop at Taipei's Orchard Road - Chunghsiao E. Road, Sec 4. The Wufenpu Garment Wholesale Area is great for bargain buys, from clothes and bags to shoes and accessories. But the place is a maze, so if you spot something you fancy, don't hesitate or you may have a problem finding that store again. It's a five-minute walk from Houshanpi subway station, exit 4.

The Tode - it stands for To Design In Taiwan - shop specialises in creations by young Taiwanese designers, from T-shirts to accessories. (No 54, Lane 31, Sec 1, Da-an Road, Tel: 886-2-8771-7384)

How to get around

Most places of interest are accessible by Taipei's commuter-friendly subway. Taxis are relatively cheap and safe too, with the flagdown rate being NT$70 and most trips within the city costing less than NT$200.

Safety
Cars, especially those making a turn, do not necessarily give way to pedestrians at crossings. Look out for motorcycles and scooters when you alight from taxis.

Best-kept secret

Take some time to explore the city's labyrinth of back alleys, especially those at the Chunghsiao E. Road shopping district. But do so in the day.

You will find lots of surprises, such as the avant-garde PS Underground boutique (Level B1, No 37, Lane 187, Sec 1, Dunhua S. Road, Tel: 886-2-2775-2918), which carries labels such as Comme des Garcons, as well as stylish restaurants such as Mr. J, which is owned by none other than Taiwanese pop idol Jay Chou. (No 43, Lane 308, Guangfu S. Road, Tel: 886-2-2731- 2245)

And how about some bus-dining? Tian Xia Di Yi Wei, which literally means world's finest taste, has converted four buses into dining areas.

Located at the Neihu district which is known for its tech park, it is not accessible by subway. But the fun dining experience, as well as delicious and affordably priced Taiwanese-style da pai dong dishes, make it worthwhile to go the extra mile. (No 57, Rueiguang Road, Neihu District, Tel: 886-2-2792-0336/6339, 4pm to 1am)

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I'm still dealing with the name change of CKS to Taoyuan International. Just my recommendation but if for any reason you're going all the way to Taipei for a stay you might as well pad in an extra few days and get a trip into HK. The flights are frequent and fairly easy to manage. Food-wise you could have Taiwan xiao chi and HK food! Macau is really easy to get to from HK as well. It's just a ferry ride and when we went the 'first class' seat on the ferry wasn't very expensive.

I have a bunch of pictures from Taipei, HK and Macau I'd love to put up some time. I have some from night markets, 101 and restaurants. The pictures are of people but there's food in the background. I think I could write up a budget-friendlier version of a trip recommendation where you can still hit the big spots. But I'd still recommend if you go to one might as well hit Taipei, HK and Macau.

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Right, I lived in HK for several years and it's like the epicenter departure point for anything asian. What you said is correct. Macau is easily accessed via jet ferries or fei tan. I recall departures from Victoria harbor were every 10-15 minutes on weekends. When I went it was a very cheap $60 HKD one way and within an hour or so you were in the Portuguese colony. Taiwan as I recall had a dozen or so flights a day Cathay Pacific airlines as well has Tokyo. I went once to Tokyo with friends. Flew in during the morning and left near midnite on a weekend. Cost was very reasonable like under $200 USD round trip.

Yes, please post your pics in the Photography forum. I would like to see them. Members were asking about vacation spots so trip/budget recommendation would be interesting to see.

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