Car-free Bangkok By Graham Simmons
Publisher:The Star - Publication Date: 03-06-2008

Gone are the days when getting around Bangkok (Thailand) meant hours stuck in tightly gridlocked traffic. The city’s new network of sky-trains, underground trains and river ferries, all connected at interchanges, makes getting around this sprawling city a breeze.
From August 2008, the system will further be augmented by a fleet of state-of-the-art buses running in dedicated lanes-–and even this will be just the tip of a very big “iceberg” of planned public transport improvements.

The most extensive rail network to date is the Skytrain (aka BTS), with two lines of trains (Silom line and Sukhumvit line) running on elevated rails and meeting at Siam Station. By 2011, this line is to be extended to run to the new Suvarnabhumi International Airport.
Then there is the Metro (MRT) underground rail, with one line already running and three more planned. Line One of the BRT bus network will join up with the SkyTrain at Chong Nonsi BTS station.
Here are some suggestions for things to do and see using Bangkok’s new transport network, as well as some tips for easy travel.
Early morning, join the hundreds (thousands at weekends) practising Tai Chi in Lumbini (aka Lumphini) Park, near Silom SkyTrain station. Then take a stroll around the park, and feed the fish that thrive in the scenic lake.
Breakfast by the river at the Verandah Coffee Shop, in the legendary Oriental Hotel (right at riverboat Pier One, just one stop away from the Saphan Taksin riverboat/SkyTrain interchange.

The Oriental has frequently been voted “World’s best hotel”. A full buffet breakfast costs 980 baht (US$30) for both hotel guests and visitors-–and the views, overlooking the Chao Phrya River, are alone worth the price. Tel (+66) 2659 9000 for reservations.
Jump on a riverboat to River City at Sri Phraya Pier (Pier Three), From here, join one of the many canal tours. A tour, lasting 60-90 minutes, should also take in the Royal Barge Museum, originally built as a dockyard for royal barges and Royal Thai Navy warships.
Take another boat from Pier Three to Tien Pier (Pier Eight), from where the famous Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) is just across the river (by frequent fast ferry). This temple shows strong Cambodian influences, from the Angkor dynasty. Climb to the second or third tier of the temple for some great panoramic views. Then cross back to Tien Pier and visit the adjacent Wat Po (Reclining Buddha) Temple.
Catch yet another riverboat from Tien Pier to Wang Lang Pier (Pier Ten), from where it’s a 200m stroll to the Supatra River House (266 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arunamarin Road, Tel: [+66] 2411 0305), which serves fine Thai cuisine-–but if you don’t want your meal “dumbed down” for foreign tastes, be sure to advise the waiter accordingly.
Take the riverboat back to The Harbour Department Pier (Pier Four), adjacent to Hua Lampong Metro (MRT) and State Rail (SRT) station. At the end of Chinatown’s Yaowarat Road near the station, you’ll find the Golden Buddha statue in Wat Trai Mit Witthayaram, the world’s largest Buddha statue made of solid gold-–at 3m high and weighing over five tonnes, it’s enough to give security staff recurring nightmares.
From Hua Lampong, take the Metro just two stops to Sala Daeng/Siam interchange. On levels B1 and B2 of the Paragon shopping centre, Siam Ocean World (open 9am-10pm) is South-East Asia’s largest aquarium.
Then from the Paragon Centre it’s a five-minute walk to the giant MBK Shopping Centre. The centre has three zones and eight levels, with over 2,000 shops-–enough to satisfy even the maddest shopaholic.
When you get tired, adjourn for a coffee and snack at the outstanding Fifth Food Avenue food-court, on Level Five. Get a smart-card at the entrance, which is swiped at each food outlet-–you pay at checkout, and will be surprised at the low total price.
Take the SkyTrain eight stations north to Railway Park (open 8:30am-4:30pm daily except Mondays) near Mo Chit station. The park is family-friendly, wih big open spaces and bicycle trails (bike hire costs 20 Baht an hour). Railway Park also incorporates the Bangkok Butterfly Garden and Insectarium.
In the evening, take the SkyTrain back to Saphan Taksin station, from where it’s a 10-minute walk to State Tower. On the 66th level of State Tower, the Sky Bar is such a cool hangout (in more ways than one) that you won’t want to leave.
Maybe stay for dinner in the open-air Sirocco Restaurant, adjacent to the Sky Bar–-but be warned that there isn’t a Thai dish on the menu-–and you probably haven’t come to Thailand to eat Western food. A better dinner choice might be Breeze, (Level 52, State Tower, tel [+66] 2624 9555), with a highly-recommended pan-Asian menu.
Alternatively, take the SkyTrain to Nana station. Opposite the station, the futuristic Bed Supper Club (26, Soi Sukhumvit 11, Sukhumvit Road, Klongtoey-nua, tel [+66] 2651 3537) provides a unique dining experience in its minimalist White Room. At weekends, a “surprise” set menu is served at 8.30pm. After dinner, groove on to some relaxing lounge music-–if, that is, you can still move.
For late-night ragers, adjourn to the new and avant-garde Club Culture (346/29 Sri Ayudthaya Road, near Phaya Thai SkyTrain station’s Siam City exit, tel [+66] 2653 7216), with state-of-the-art lighting and a range of sounds from techno-trance to hip-hop.

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