Experience the divide By Kim Kyu-heong
Publisher:The Korea Herald - Publication Date: 09-06-2008

Spend some time at Dorasan Station, the last stop before North Korea on the Gyeongui train line, and the state of tourism at the demilitarised zone becomes clear. Hordes of children pile in, snap pictures and depart as quickly as they arrive. The twice-daily choo-choo that rolls into the station evacuates its tourists, who get into buses and head off on their whirlwind tour.

Due to its location beyond the civilian passage restriction line, the number of tourists that can come to this station - which was a multi-million dollar project during the Kim Dae-jung administration - is limited to the approximately 500 individuals who are fortunate enough to book a train seat, and groups of over 30 with special permission.

"This is such a great train station, and, as the station manager, it breaks my heart to know that our citizens can't freely visit it," said Kim Kyung-seop.

He points to the rust accumulating on the tracks which are just six years old. Of the three sets of tracks, only one - which is used to ferry tourists from nearby Imjingang Station and to make a daily freight run to Gaeseong in the North - is being used now. In much the same way, DMZ sights all along the border are tourism gems just waiting to be exploited, but there are the security restrictions due to the technically ongoing state of war between the Koreas. Despite the setbacks, however, DMZ tourism is just starting to become more accessible to the public, especially in Gyeonggi Province.

Of all the DMZ destinations within this zone - a somewhat arbitrarily fenced area that separates the southern DMZ border and the regular civilian zone - the area surrounding Dorasan Station is the highlight. For most tourists who come to here via train, buses run a loop between the station, Dora Observatory and the Third Tunnel, which was discovered by the South in 1978.

The tunnel is an unforgettable experience. The first descent to the end of it, some 73 metres underground, can either be a refreshingly cool strut down a ramp or a trolley ride, depending on how much you pay.

Of the 1.6km of tunnel dug by the North Koreans, just 265 metres is open to the public, and, although there is nothing physically spectacular about the place, the thought that 10,000 soldiers could have stormed through it into the South within an hour is chilling. Beware of the short ceiling.

The tunnel may get you as physically close to the demilitarized zone and our northern neighbours as possible, but the best way to catch a glimpse of the North is at one of the eight observatories in South Korea. Though the Dora Observatory in Paju is easily accessible from both the tunnel and Dorasan Station, for a more intimate encounter, the Yeolsoe Observatory in Yeoncheon County is the best bet.

This site, which draws its name from the nickname of the 5th infantry division that keeps watch over this part of the border, is about two hours north of Seoul. One of the unique programmes offered here, made possible by its location in a relatively relaxed area of the DMZ, is the walking tour along the fence. Tours to the observatory depart from Seoul and include a briefing about the DMZ and the surrounding areas, which gives tourists an idea of life in the region before, during and after the Korean War. On a clear day, visitors can look out at the Yeoncheon plain, which is so fertile and wide that it was said to have produced enough rice to feed 100,000 people yearly. On the opposite end, you may see White Horse Mountain, where thousands of Korean, Chinese and UN soldiers were killed during an October 1952 bloodbath.

The highlight of the tour is a short, eerie 1 kilometre walk along the fence that separates the South from no man's land. Visitors are encouraged to write their thoughts on a ribbon, and tie it to the fence. This is part of the efforts to encourage DMZ tourists to focus on the future and peace.

"We want to get the word out that this is no longer the demilitarised zone, but rather the Peace Life Zone," said Yeoncheon county mayor Kim Kyu-bae. "This is a place where the natural environment, ecology and history coexist."

The greatest obstacle has been the lack of easy accessibility to the areas closest to the DMZ, with its very restrictive entry procedures. If you don't want to devote a full day to visiting the DMZ, or go through the hassle of checkpoints, a simple half-day trip to the Imjingak Tourism Area is well worth it.

Centered around Imjingang Station, the civilian terminus of the Gyeongui line, the area has been developed in recent areas with mass tourism in mind. The Pyeonghwa Nuri, a park and amphitheater for occasional performances, is the centerpiece of the area, and is perfect for picnics. For those who care about history, you'll want to hike to the Freedom Bridge, which was hastily constructed in 1953 as location for the secret exchange of POWs after the Korean War.

Though such exchanges are a thing of the past, and the bridge has been rebuilt several times, the original decaying foundations of Freedom Bridge can still be seen. It also serves as a symbolic border to the North for many, who leaves prayers and memorabilia at its end - expressing the hope of seeing loved ones and a united Korea someday.

Tours to Paju's Civilian Restriction Zone can be arranged through the DMZ Tour Office at (031)954-4744. For more information about walking the fence at Yeolsoe Observatory, visit dmztourkorea.com or call (02)706-4851. Reservations are required for both tours and participants must carry their passport or identification card. Trains to Imjingang Station depart several times daily from Seoul Station, and three trains continue on to Dorasan Station, which requires a reservation. For train times, visit korail.com

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