Exploring Udon Thani
Ng Su-ann
The Star
Publication Date : 07-08-2008






He could speak no English and we could speak no Thai. But with the help of a phrasebook, we made the best of this “chicken and duck” situation.
When my friend and I decided to vacation in Udon Thani, we had no idea that the phrasebook she brought for fun would come in handy.
Arriving late from Bangkok, we called a few travel agencies to book a tour for the next day. English was not an issue yet. It became one when our tour driver came to pick us up and started speaking in Thai. Seeing our difficulty in comprehending him, he started using hand gestures.
Being a chatty person, my friend was unperturbed and tried to strike up a conversation during the journey. I helped her to find the right Thai phrases from the book.
I thought I had managed a “You have a lovely town here” in Thai but my message must have sent the wrong signal when he started blushing. He must have thought I said he was lovely!
The first stop was 50km away from Udon at the hamlet of Ban Chiang. When archaeological excavations kicked off here in 1974, it flourished from a sleepy hollow into a tourist landmark. It is believed the world’s first Bronze Age civilisation thrived here over 5,000 years ago.
In 1992, this rustic town received a further boost when it was proclaimed a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Cashing in on its fame, many locals sell an eclectic array of earthenware modelled after those found in the excavation pit.

Our driver was not sure of his way to the next stop, so we ended up in the middle of nowhere. Back on track after a 45-minute “detour”, we finally reached Kham Chanot (75km from Udon Thani), a sacred place noted for its beautiful forest and towering golden Buddha statue.
An urban legend says it is the entrance to the water world, a legendary place where the great Naga (serpent) inhabits.
The usually tranquil scene here was transformed into a boisterous one as hundreds of nearby villagers gathered to greet one of the king’s granddaughters.
When in Rome, do as the Romans do. I accepted a multi-coloured flag and sat on a mat together with the villagers for at least two hours for the princess.

Although clouds were threatening to burst, luck was on our side. It drizzled for only a few minutes.
Wearing a simple frock, the princess smiled and waved as she walked past us into the temple to pray for an hour.
Upon her departure, we walked barefoot on a cement path leading into the forest and to the shrine of Chaopu Sisuttho. The place shaded by Chanot trees (resembling coconut trees) had an air of mystery.
In the forest, I saw many devotees drinking and washing their faces at a well. Some even brought empty bottles to fill up.
After my experience with our driver, I thought it was best not to opt for another package tour. So, I spent a day exploring Udon with a map as my sole guide. My friend opted to visit a distant temple. So, I was on my own.
I tried to imagine the town as an American airbase during the Viet Nam War. Today, it is bustling for another reason--tourism, thanks to its close proximity to Ban Chiang and the Friendship Bridge where the locals use to cross over to Laos.
Walking is a good way to soak in the sights although samlor (tri-wheeled bicycle taxis), songthaew (mini buses) and tuk tuk are abundant.
I covered all the three major traffic roundabouts--the Fountain Circle (unfortunately, it was under construction), Clock Tower Circle and Prince Prajak Monument.
Next, I visited a wholesale clothes market at Phosi Road. There were good bargains here due to a price war among the shops.
Walking for another hour, I stopped by the City Pillar Shrine to have a sandwich. I munched my lunch surrounded by towering statues of the shrine’s guardian spirits.
Located in the Thungsi Muang field where festivals are often held, the place is believed to house Udon’s guardian deity. Energised after my meal and a short rest, I set off for Nong Prachak Park.
This was my favourite place in Udon. I found solace in its well-landscaped greens and sprawling lake complete with bicycle paths, a fish feeding corner, walking tracks and an open-air gymnasium.
I was especially impressed by the charming stone sculptures here. The one which moved me most depicted a wistful-looking couple dressed in traditional Thai costumes sitting on a bench, facing the shimmering waters. Someone had even put a garland of flowers round the male figure’s neck.
The park was initially called Nong Na Klue (Pond of Salty Water) before it was changed to Nong Prachak in honour of Major General Prince Prachaksinlapakhom, the founder of Udon.
Whether one is here to exercise or chill out, it is an ideal place to escape from the bustle and grime of town life.
In the evening, my friend and I made a beeline for the Phu Ya Temple which overlooks Nong Bua Lake. The Chinese believes Phu and Ya are the god and goddess of mercy respectively.
Two picturesque pavilions beside this lakeside shrine serve as viewing platforms. Within walking distance is a night bazaar which comes alive as soon as the sun dips into the horizon.
It is easy to get lost in its maze of stalls selling everything from electrical items and pirated DVDs to glittering trinkets and clothes. As the locals in Udon understand limited English, a phrasebook is a good investment here.