The world’s eighth wonder By Joleen Lunjew
Publisher:The Star - Publication Date: 19-03-2008

Take the road less travelled and explore the beautiful scenic mountains of The Philippines
Banaue is only 300km north of Manila but it takes a long eight-hour journey by coach to get to, as the village roads are small, winding and steep.
Truly a world of its own, Banaue sits at the foot of a mesmerising display, the fabulous mountain rice terraces of the Cordillera.
Still being cultivated today, the rice terraces were built over 2,000 years ago by the Ifugao tribe. Not only were they feared as headhunters, the Ifugao were skilled engineers who invented a sophisticated irrigation system of bamboo tubes and mud channels that brought water up to the terraces.
Considered one of mankind’s greatest engineering feats, the carving of the rice terraces using primitive tools is likened to the achievement of building the pyramids in Egypt. The terraces were declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1995.
The Ifugaos refer to the terraces as the 'stairway to heaven', as some can reach up to an altitude of 1,500m. If the terraces were laid end to end, they would stretch half way around the world.
Sadly, the mud-walled terraces are now showing signs of erosion due to the lack of maintenance, as the younger generation are more interested in tourism and other jobs in big cities rather than toiling the soil.
The best place to view the terraces is at the various viewpoints set at 200m intervals, and the best time to view the terraces in all its glory is in the late afternoon when it is backlit by the setting sun.
There are plenty of souvenir shops along the way since Ifugaos are skilled woodcarvers who can carve just about anything you can think of. You can have your photo taken with one of the many old Ifugao ladies decked out in full tribal regalia at the viewpoints but you are expected to give them a token of appreciation. Try not to wear their headgear, as I have come across one tourist who complained of an itchy head hours after doing so.
Most of them can be seen chewing betel nut, the seed of the betel palm, which apparently helps one to keep warm in the cold.
If you would like to view more rice terraces, you can always hop on a jeepney to the neighbouring villages. Be prepared for a harrowing but memorable experience as the drivers tackle sharp corners and pass each other closely along the narrow dirt roads. It’s very common to see adults, children, cargo and even livestock up on the roof or hanging on the sides of the jeepneys, oblivious to the dangers.
I rode the jeepney to the Hungduan Rice Terraces, another Unesco World Heritage Site about 17km northwest of Banaue, to walk amongst the rice terraces and take in the beautiful sights. It was interesting to learn about the whole harvesting process and how water is channelled to higher terraces.
I felt more adventurous so I decided to sit on top of the jeepney on the way back.
There are many guesthouses in Banaue but I stayed at their one and only hotel, The Banaue Hotel & Youth Hostel. I took a walk down to the pool, which in turn led to the Tam-An Village. There were a few wood souvenir shops there offering various furniture and decorative items.
If you have time, take the 45-minute trek from Tam-An to Poitan Village, where you will be able to see the Ifugao people going about their business amongst traditional Ifugao houses.
A short walk away from the hotel will take you to the heart of Banaue town, a charming place where guesthouses and small souvenir shops litter the streets. I was lucky as it was a Saturday, the only time the town comes alive to peddlers selling their wares in the street market. There were a variety of interesting items offered, from local treats to intricate beadwork. I bought myself a fascinating stool carved into the shape of a frog.
Other than the rice terraces and a stroll around the town, there is not much to do after dark. Banaue is not for those who hanker after a bustling city life. Rather, it is a magical place where you can immerse yourself in stunning scenery and the serene aura of isolation.
Stay a few days; you are sure to lose track of time.

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