Rediscovered gem By Kim Kyu-heong
Publisher:The Korea Herald - Publication Date: 20-03-2008

Ever since last month's tragic torching of Namdaemun, there has been a wave of nostalgia surrounding what had been a great gate that stood through centuries of war and prosperity.
It was the country's pride and treasure, and for hundreds of years, it guarded the walls of old Seoul.

Well, to say "guard" would slightly incorrect. In reality, it served little military purpose and was used mostly to greet dignitaries, welcome newcomers and serve as an overall beacon of Seoul. Its name, Sungnaemun, means to highly regard etiquette. Compare that to its northern counterpart Sukjeongmun -- which means to rule strictly -- and it's easy to discern which gate was the real key to the city.

So how has the North Gate slipped under everyone's radar for so long? For starters, its remote location is at fault. Unlike its southern counterpart, which is in the heart of modern Seoul, Sukjeongmun is located high atop Mount Bugak, with no roads leading to the top. But the main reason for the mystery that shrouds it is those pesky North Koreans.

Ever since more than 30 North Korean guerillas infiltrated the area during their assassination plot of then-President Park Chung-hee, the area has been under military control, closed to all civilians. And finally, last year, after almost four decades of exclusion, the gate and the surrounding fortress walls were opened to the public, setting the scene for thousands of visitors to experience an unexplored history of Seoul. The newly opened 3.8km trail follows the old fortress wall from Changuimun (the Northwest Gate), up to the top of Mount Bugak and down to Sukjeongmun before terminating at Malbawi lodge in Waryong Park or at Hongryeonsa Temple. In between is 700 years of history.

King Taejo began construction of the wall in 1392 -- preserved fairly well with Sukjeongmun, which was reconstructed in 1976, as its centrepiece. This is what guarded Seoul from multiple foreign incursions.

While the days of Mongolian and Japanese invasions are long gone, the fortress still plays a role in defense, protecting the northern border of the presidential residence. A statue of a police officer who fell during the defense of the Blue House in 1968 stands at the Changuimun entrance, serving as a distinct reminder of the 140-plus Korean and American casualties suffered during the ordeal. A pine tree scarred with a bullet from a firefight during also stands in the middle of the trail.

Though it may be open to the public, the trail and its gates are still unmistakably militarised. Soldiers disguised as park employees stand at regular intervals and guards stand in towers that Joseon centuries once would have stood. Everyone needs to register in order to enter the park and attempting to snap a picture outside the designated areas will result in a guard chasing you down.

Despite the restrictions, however, this course is by far the best place to walk part of the 15km fortress wall that once surrounded Seoul on all sides, completing a ring from Bugak, Inwang, Nam and Nak mountains.

For those who want to walk through the course, it will take two to three hours, with the steepest climb being from Changuimun straight up to the top of Mount Bugak -- if climbing is not your forte, begin your trek from the east end at Malbawi or Hongryeonsa lodge.

Even if history isn't what you're looking for, the hike in itself is a refreshing experience. Benefiting from four decades of restricted access, the biological diversity is wider here than it is anywhere else in Seoul, and on a clear day, you can look out over all of downtown Seoul -- just as a Joseon guard would have hundreds of years ago.

You, unlike he, will be able to see dozens of skyscrapers and the beauty (and ugliness) of modern development.

One thing, though, that had been visible for centuries, but as of 2008 is no more, is Sungnyemun.

Mount Bugak Seoul Fortress Tour is open from 10am to 5pm (last admission at 3pm) everyday except Monday. You must register with your Korean ID, foreigner ID or passport at one of the tree entry points below. For more information, visit bukak.or.kr

The most easily accessible entry point is the Changeuimun lodge (02-730-9924), reached by bus 0212, 1020 or 7022 from Gyeongbokgung Station (Line 3, Exit 3). The Hongryeonsa lodge (02-747-2152) entrance can be reached by a 10 minute walk from the terminus of bus 1111 or 2112 from Hansung University Station (Line 4, Exit 6). The entry point at Malbawi lodge (02-765-0297) is a 15 minute walk from the end of the Jongno 08 bus, accessible from Hwehwa Station (Line 4, Exit 1).

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